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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.